Tuesday, October 14, 2014

Chocolate Cartel

Chocolate Cartel.

I was very excited to try Chocolate Cartel chocolate bars. In fact, I accidentally mindlessly but happily plowed my way through two bars before I realized I probably should have taken some more complete notes on the flavors. Of course, I had to go out and buy another bar, just to verify that I remembered the taste of the chocolate correctly. OK, I guess I didn't have to, but it was the perfect excuse to buy more chocolate.

The first thing I noticed about these bars is that they are pretty with the toppings visible through the cellophane wrappers. The packaging is simple. There's no need for excessive showiness on the surface when the chocolate is good. The other obvious distinguishing feature is that the bars are thin, which gives them an elegant appearance. What really sets these bars apart from others is the taste.

There was something intriguing about all the bars. They are a step above most, so much so that I felt compelled to contact the company, something I rarely do. Obviously the chocolate made an impression on me. Below are a few questions Tim, co-owner, business partner and brother of certified master chocolatier and chef de cuisine at Chocolate Cartel, Scott J. Van Rixel, was kind enough to answer, but first a little bit about the company and my reviews:

Some of you may remember a company called Xocoatl. Chocolate Cartel is actually the same company, just relocated and expanded. They are now in Albuquerque instead of Taos.

From their website: Xocoatl Chocolate, now the Chocolate Cartel began in Taos, New Mexico in 2001 by Certified Master Chocolatier and Chef de Cuisine Scott J. Van Rixel. Immediately his chocolate creations drew wild buzz from locals and visitors giving brother Tim, the opportunity to join the chocolate team soon after. Since then the Chocolate Cartel's popularity has grown beyond New Mexico and throughout the U.S. The Van Rixel brothers remain devoted to handcrafting superb chocolates using only the best, fairly traded chocolate and natural ingredients. Scott's knowledge of ingredients, knack for flavor profiles and overall science of foods has led their creations to rival the finest chocolatiers from around the globe. 

The first bar I sampled was the Hiwa Kai Black Lava Salt bar. Hiwa Kai Black Lava salt is from Hawaii. It's Pacific sea salt with added activated charcoal that gives the salt a black hue and a silky complexion.

Hiwa Kai Black Lava Salt.
If anyone wants to know how to pair salt and chocolate, this bar will demonstrate how to do so perfectly. With the first bite, the chocolate flavor is prominent, though a light taste of chicory and cinnamon lingered in the background. As you bite into the black salt that looks rather pretty on the bar, there's a beautiful crunch followed by a short but sweet burst of salt that doesn't overwhelm the chocolate; it enhances it. That's exactly how it should be! With the interesting flavors and the unique texture, the chocolate becomes even more intriguing and addicting. Since the chocolate itself is fragrant, spicy and even a little bit fruity but still full of cocoa, a dash of salt mingles well with the complex flavors. I tasted a hint of bitterness, but it was not at all unpleasant or acrid. This a lovely, well-balanced bar I could eat on a daily basis and never get bored.


Bee pollen looks cute on dark chocolate, and it's good for you too. 

The next bar I devoured was the Honey and Bee Pollen bar. Small balls of bee pollen decorate the top of the bar nicely, and while the honey flavor dominated, the pollen added to and enhanced both the texture and flavor. Specifically, it brought out the floral and earthy notes of the chocolate and added a very subtle and soft, slightly crunchy texture. Right off the bat I noticed a strong honey flavor embedded deep in the chocolate with potent vanilla notes playing second string. This is probably one of the more intriguing chocolates bars I have experienced, and while the Mawi Kai Salt bar is still calling to me, this is one I would buy again. I think it would also make a pretty gift for your favorite chocolate connoisseur.



Merlot salt is a deep purple color with a rich flavor.

The third bar I sampled was the Merlot Salt Bar, another perfectly balanced salt and chocolate combination with a salt that's slightly less potent and more crystal like than the Mawi Kai salt. It melts more quickly in your mouth. The addition of the Merlot salt on top brings out the fruit and floral notes in the chocolate. There's a more pronounced dark cherry flavor that stands out in the rich dark chocolate. The salt hits just enough to wake up your palate and then backs off to allow the chocolate flavor to shine, and there is just a hint of the Merlot wine flavor left teasing your taste buds as the chocolate melts in your mouth.

A few questions answered by the co-owner of Chocolate Cartel, Tim Van Rixel:


1. How is it running a company as brothers? Do you have specific roles in the company, or do you both share all the responsibilities? 
Tim runs day to  day operations now. Scott is in more of a consulting role.

2. How did you get interested in chocolate?
Scott always had a culinary passion.  Chocolate allowed for artistic creativity as well as still knocking peoples socks off!  Plus, it has better hours than running a restaurant!

3. How and why did you end up choosing the El Ray Venezuelan chocolate as the base for your chocolates?
We sampled a lot.  It’s clear the best cacao on the planet comes from Venezuela.  We like that rich dark flavor. It has a harder texture with Less sugar and less cacao butter, which is contrary to European style (specifically Belgian) chocolates.  

4. What are your best selling bars?
Our topped bars, especially the toffee & salt topped.  73% Dark bars with red chile and our 90% dark bar both sell well too.

5. Why did you decide to use bee pollen in your chocolate?
It has a unique flavor and an interesting look. 

6. Do you see adding other flavors of chocolates bars to your line?
Probably not. A few different organic bars would be next if we do anything.

7. With so many bars on the market, how do yours stand out?
Taste.  But hopefully we can bring our packaging a little more up to par in the next year or two.   Sadly, people often buy with their eyes.  And we know our packaging doesn't compare to ALL the other stuff.

A very big thank you to Tim who took the time to answer my questions. I am looking forward to trying more flavors, because this is one chocolate line that really stood out among the rest. 

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